Stitch-down shoe and method of making the same



Aug. 21, 192s. 1,681,623 S. J. PENTLER ET AL STITCH DOWN SHOE AND MTHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed 001'.. 50, 1923 r,l f @www4/owe] in our y prior Patented Auge. 21,

unirsi) STATE/s PATENT t orrice.

E AND MnTHonor MAKING 'rire SAME.

- .appiicgmon inea october 3o, v1923.` serial No.. 671,700.

This invention relates to stitch-down shoes and is an improvement over that described stitch-down s Patent Number y A roes issued November et, 1919,

1,320,797 for and has ingeneral the same objects as those enumerated insuch pat Further obiects are ent.

to provide a stitchdoivn shoe in which a cheaperinsole maybe used, to provide a stitch-down shoe in which no strain isA imposed on vthe insole by the the lining to, the

upper leather,l in which a lighter and.'V less expensive thread mayb ing e employed for securinsole than that necessary for shoes employing Goodyear ivelts or those of the construction illustrated in our above notedpatent, and to provide a shoe which requires for its production than formerly constructed.

Further objects are `less skilled Workmen stitch-down yshoes as to provide a stitchdoivn shoe which will retain itsshape, Which will ivear longer,

in which the inner sole constitutes an active part of the shoe and is not merely cemented in place,

there is no possibility inner sole or and in which of loosening of the lining either from long Wear or from being moistened.

An embodiment of the invention is shown in the accompanying drawings,

Figure lis a bottom vieav of a in which stitchdown shoe With parts broken away to illustrate the interior construction.

Figure tion on the line 2-2 of The shoe comprises lining 2, therefor. Thi

2 is an enlarged fragmentary sec- Figure 1.

an upper 1 and a s lining 1s secured by means of blind stitching 3 or staples or other means to the inner sole 4,-the upper being Yfree 'from such inner sole.

stitched to a channel or that the lining 2 is It is to be noted beveled portion of the inner sole 4 and that this channel portion inner ends of the lining tate the passing of the bler 5 and the inner cork or other filling is provides a space for the and does not necessilining between the dousole 4. Consequently a not needed in this shoe as the inner sole directly contacts With the doubler 5 throughout inner sole. tioned, as shown in the extent of such Thereafter, a doubler 5 is posi- Figures 1 and 2, and the upper has its marginal edge 6 turned outwardly and positioned o-n top of the doubler 5. Thereafter, a line around the shoe and the upper 1 with the of stitching 7 is run permanently connects doubler 5.V When the shoe is thus far completed, the outer sole 8 ispositioned beneathV the doubler 5 and a iveltfstrip 9 is positionedv above the outturned portion' ot the upper, and a line of 'stitching 10 is run completely around the vshoe and through the welt strip, the oiitturned portion 6 of the upper, the doubler and the outer sole S, ,thusl firmly securing the parts together. i

It is` toI be particularly noted that it is not necessary lto glue the lining 2 to the inner sole il, but ythat suchf llining is securely fastened thereto by means of stitching vor stapling less `skill is required to stitch the lining in place than isY required Whereit is necessary kto simultaneously draW'do-Wn the upper 1 It is further to be noted thatthe insole kforms an active part of the shoe and is not merely a lining which is inserted in the shoe and cemented in place but constitutes one ol the portions o such shoe which aids in maintaining the shape of the shoe. Further, this insole will not become loosened and turn upr When the shoe is Wet as has hereto'l'ore been the case. It is further to be noted that the lining is stitched in place or stapled in place and will not loosen or pull up from extended use or from becoming moistened. It Will be seen, therefore, that the lining is maintained by this construction in a smooth and univrinkled condition and Yis securely attached at all times. It is also to be noted that the stitching or stapling of the lining does not have to be as accurately done as heretofore for the reason that this securing means is fully covered by the upper and is not visible in the completed shoe.

It ivill be seen, therefore, that an eXtremely serviceable and more economical stitchdown shoeA has been provided than has heretofore been possible, and that such shoe Will retain its shape under the most adverse conditions.

In cases Where it is not desirable to employ the doubler 5, as shown in the drawings, such doubler may be omitted and the outturned portion 6 of the upper is then positioned directlyV upon the outer sole 8. The Welt strip 9V is then correctly positioned and suit- 3. Y It is to be noted further that v able stitching `is Apassed through the Welt strip the outturned portion and the outei' Sole 8. Obviously, any desired order of stitching may be employedftorfsecuring:thesel parts together, for example, the outturned portion 6 maybe irst*stitched-tothe outer sole 8 and, thereafter, a line of stitching` could be run throughthewvelt strip,-theout. turned portion andthe outer sole. y

Although the invention'lias been described in considerable detail,'it is tobe understood that vthe invention may be variously embodied and is, therefore, to be "limited 'only as claimed. l 7e claim: 1 L l f l. In a stitch-doWn shoe, the combination of an upper and a lining, an innersole having a beveled lower -marginal edge, saidf linf ing having its marginal portion 'positioned against this beveled edge, securing means joining said lining and said inner sole, vsaid securing means extending oni)7 through 'said lining and said inner sole, said upper being turned outWalrdly'at its marginal portions,

f a doubler positioned vin Contact :with the extent of the in-l inner sole throughout the ner sole, securing means joining the VLoutturned portion o' said upper and said'doubler, anouter sole positioned below said doubler, aWelt-strip positioned above said outturned portion, and aline of stitching passing through said Welt strip, 'said' outturned portion, said doublerand saidouter'sole.

2. Inthe manufacture'of boots and shoes,y

yshoe to produce a-metliod that comprises positioning a lining against/the edge 'face of van insoleand sewing fthe `lining to the edge to produce an inner `rshoe, positioning Vthe insole infface-to-face ycontact with an yintermediate sole so that the finarlginloflthe interinediatefsole extends beyond *the said edge face, positioningran upv'per"about-the lining `With a marginal portion of the upper in cont-act with the margin oftheinterinediate sole,` sewing'the marginal yportion of vthe upper to 'the said margin of separately from 'the inner an outer shoe, 'whereby the i the second sole inner shoebecomes positioned in the outer shoe, positioning the intermediate solek in faee-to-face Contactl -Witli an outer sole, and sewing the outer-and intermediate soles, the said margin of the ,upper'andafwelt together.

- 3. A boot or lshoe having, in combination,` Y

an ,outer shoe, and an innershoe positioned in the outer'shoe, the inner shoe comprising an insole and a'liningsewed to the edge face 

